Suffolk Highlights

Pebbly beaches, heaths, marshes and a great big shell! 

March weather can be unpredictable, we had packed layers, walking boots, waterproofs in case it was wet and books in case we were stuck indoors.  Our destination was a converted barn, Trustans Barn, in a hamlet about 5 miles from the Suffolk coast.

The weather on the journey was fine and we enjoyed some fresh air with a stop at Anglesey Abbey near Cambridge.  This is a National Trust property and garden, with a working watermill.  Although the house was closed the gardens were a delight, especially the Winter Garden, with its unusual planting schemes and incredible colour. The spring flowers were blooming and great patches of small blue plants (scilla) surrounded the trees to great effect.



National Trust
Path through the Winter Garden

Springtime
Spring colour

National Trust
Winter Garden

Scilla
Swathes of blue spring bulbs

National Trust
Colourful dogwoods

Pink petals
Spring blossoms

It was late afternoon when we finally arrived at our destination and were given a warm welcome by Sally who runs the B&B with her sister Rosie.  It is a beautiful barn conversion and our room, The Nest, had impressive beams and a lovely A frame window with views over farmland.


The window in 'The Nest'
Sally is planning to create a winding path around the fields surrounding the barn and farmhouse by mowing this path and leaving the rest of the grass to grow tall.  I can imagine a scene like the one in Gladiator when Russell Crowe's Maximus returns home and is walking through the tall grass with a golden sun softening the scene.. As is was, we managed to follow the path by looking out for small white markers.  It was good to get an idea of the extent of the farm and admire the barn and farmhouse buildings from all angles.  


Barn conversion and Bed and Breakfast
Trustans Barn and farmhouse

The neighbouring property has some inquisitive but nervous young cows in the field and we discovered the free range chickens that would be providing our breakfast eggs!


Nervous cows - looks like the one on the left is about to take a penalty shot!

Back in the barn there is a blackboard chalked up with information about the area, including the best places for meals.  We decided to try the nearest pub, the Kings Head in Yoxford.  

Recommended restaurants and pubs
The best places to eat

Sally warned us that the area is very dark at night so we would need a torch if we were planning to walk into Yoxford to visit the Kings Head for our evening meal.  There was an emergency torch in the room that we could use if necessary. It's a good job we did as it was essential to find our way in the pitch dark.

The food at the King's Head was excellent.  Wild mushroom risotto was very tasty, not 'gloopy' as risotto can sometimes be, but slightly nutty with a selection of different types of wild mushrooms. Delicious. The Shepherd's Pie was incredible, not made with minced lamb but with a locally grown and butchered lamb slowly cooked in a rich gravy with swede and potato mash and served with roasted root vegetables. Very well cooked and presented.

The next morning visits to the RSPB site at Minsmere, Dunwich Heath and Aldeburgh were planned while we ate a wonderful breakfast cooked by Trish. Sally told us about the Darsham Marshes where beautiful wild orchids grow, these flower later in the year. We discovered that there is not much to see at this time of year and it was a bit boggy, however we could spot the leaves of the orchids and there are plenty there so they should be able to put on a good show in June/July.


Parking at Minsmere, we walked through the path to the sea then turned north to take a look around Dunwich Heath.  The gorse was in full bloom but there was no colour, yet, in the heather.  The National Trust tearoom provided refreshments and we were joined by a couple of nuthatches after our crumbs!



Friendly nuthatch

After walking back along the beach we re-entered Minsmere and wandered around the marshes, stopping in the hides and watching the birds.  


View from the East hide, black headed gulls


East hide, black headed gull and wigeon

The Suffolk coast and heaths is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and the scenery is delightful.  It was strange, though, to see the dome of Sizewell B nuclear power plant on the horizon just along the coast south of Minsmere.


RSPB Minsmere
Sizewell A and B on the horizon

The weather was cool and breezy and the sea was quite turbulent, churning up sand and barrelling waves.  The forecast had threatened rain and by the time we arrived in Aldeburgh the sky was getting quite overcast.  


Barrelling waves and a churned up sea

We managed to park up and walk along the shingle beach to see the impressive Scallop sculpture by Maggi Hambling, just before the heavens opened and we escaped to a coffee shop, just in time.  There was a tremendous downpour that drenched the streets yet passed by within half an hour.



Sculpture, Art, Benjamin Brittain
The Scallop by Maggi Hambling

Aldeburgh has some fine buildings including the timber framed Moot Hall, a selection of good shops, galleries and an excellent bookshop. 


After the downpour there was a strange light along the edge of the sea, between the sea and the sky.  It was a pale luminescence that seemed quite mysterious.

Boats on Aldeburgh beach

Strange light between the sea and the sky

Once I was dragged away from the wonderful light over the sea we headed back to Wrestleton and tried out another of Sally's recommendations, the Crown Inn, where we had a traditional British meal of Fish and Chips! (all that sea air...). Again, it was a good meal.

That evening the sky cleared and we could see constellations and the Milky Way through our bedroom window, it was wonderful.

Birds woke us early the following morning and after a splendid breakfast we packed our bags and headed off to Dunwich beach so I could take photos and we could skim stones in the sea!  It was a beautiful sunny day and the fresh air was scented with minerals and blossom.

Suffolk beach
Dunwich beach, looking south to Sizewell

Framlingham village and Castle was near our route home so we stopped to take a look at this English Heritage site. Unfortunately the castle was closed due to renovation work but we could get quite close.  It looks impressive and would be good to visit when it reopens.

English Heritage
Framlingham Castle

It was a very enjoyable trip and I'm pleased that we didn't get too wet or need to stay indoors.  Beautiful scenery, bracing sea air, good food and a friendly welcome, what more can you ask for!

We stayed at Trustans Barn, here is a link to their website Trustans.  
Our booking was made through Expedia, the link to their hotel search is:


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